Xingping is an old market town on the west bank of the Li River, about 25 kilometres upstream from Yangshuo. It has narrow stone lanes, brick-and-timber houses, and a working riverfront where ferries and rafts tie up. The famous twenty-yuan note view is a short walk from the centre, and Laozhai Hill rises directly behind the town. It is quieter and more everyday than West Street, though day-trippers arrive in the middle of the day.
In short
Stay one night if you can. The town is best in early morning and after the day tours leave. Use it as a base for Xianggong Hill and the Yangdi–Xingping raft.
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The town itself
Xingping's old quarter is a grid of narrow lanes running back from the river. Many buildings are original, with whitewashed walls, dark timber, and tiled roofs; others have been rebuilt as guesthouses and cafés. It is not a museum: people live and work here, and the morning market is a good place to see that. The riverfront is the social centre, with rafts, fishing boats, and laundry.
The town is small enough to walk in an hour, but it rewards a slower pace. Have breakfast at a rice noodle shop, walk the lanes before the tour groups arrive, and sit by the river in the late afternoon. The Xingping area guide covers places to stay and eat.
The twenty-yuan view
The view printed on the back of the twenty-yuan note is a short walk downstream from the town, at a bend where the river curves around a cluster of peaks. There is a viewing platform and a small charge in some periods; the bank itself is accessible. The composition is best in the early morning, when the water is calm and the tour boats have not started.
Bring the note if you want the comparison photograph. It is a genuinely satisfying thing to do, even if it is also the most touristy moment in town. The field note on the note explains the image and its history.
Laozhai Hill
Laozhai Hill rises directly behind Xingping and takes about 20 to 30 minutes to climb. The path is steep, with rock steps and a few handrails, and the top gives a close view over the town and the river bend. It is a good alternative to Xianggong Hill if you do not want the drive, though the angle is less dramatic.
The climb is free and popular at sunset. Wear shoes with grip, bring water, and avoid it in wet weather. There are no lights on the path; do not attempt it after dark without a torch.
Getting there and away
Xingping is reached by bus from Yangshuo (about 45 minutes), by car (about 40 minutes), or by the Li River cruise, which docks at Yangshuo rather than Xingping. The high-speed train station called Yangshuo is actually in Xingping, about 20 minutes from the old town, which makes it a convenient arrival point from Guilin.
If you are staying overnight, arrange transport with your guesthouse. Buses stop in the early evening, and taxis are limited. The railway stations briefing explains the Yangshuo station location, which surprises many travellers.
Verdict
Stay one night, see the view at dawn, and use the town as a base for the best river scenery.
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